Crowds and heatwaves and strikes, oh my! Psst: not my Italian summer
Naysayers and fear-frothers usually get a lot of media coverage. As record numbers of Americans made summer travel plans, those provocateurs of chaos and churn took aim at tourists visiting Italy. As Dorothy from The Wizard of Oz might exclaim, “Crowds and heatwaves and strikes, oh my!”
Don’t worry, Toto. All is well in the Oz that is Italy.
Visiting Italy or most European countries during summer will yield some of Dorothy’s cries. Of course, beautiful, ancient cities and the promise of romanticized discoveries perpetually draw global visitors. Surely, most everywhere in the top half of the planet is hotter in the middle months. And, yes, public transit strikes continue to occur, although they are scheduled so passengers have time to make other arrangements beforehand.
Not everyone is dazed by throngs of people in rat-mazed queues or burgeoning bistros. A few even relish the idea of being in the thick of it. But, for busy-season travelers, there might be another way to experience your dream holiday.
My husband and I sojourned in Italy this July, August and September. We eluded the bemoaned catastrophic maladies purported in some media. And we avoided the Disneyland-in-Vegas insanity of Southern Italy at the height of summer, hopeful to see those sights another season.
Here are my top tips for your future once-in-a-lifetime summer in Italy.
1. Plan your trip — and change it if you must.
I reworked our 12-week, self-planned itinerary four times because of all the angst in the news during the weeks prior to departure. I’d heard it all: Don’t do two countries. Don’t go too far south. Definitely rent a car. Definitely don’t rent a car. Have a good weather plan — and a backup. Do a tour. Don’t.
While the final agenda was drastically changed, our reward for visiting places not originally on our radar was significant. Hint: stay north of Florence in summer. We traveled mostly through the gorgeous regions of Lombardy, Veneto and South Tryol.
2. Identify worst-case scenarios — and prepare to be flexible.
Nothing’s perfect. Schedules, weather and upset stomachs can all disrupt a relaxing vacation. No one likes to jog with luggage alongside train tracks or deal with unexpected issues while low on energy or pressed for time. Formulating margins of error can ease painful surprises, but kind flexibility usually saves the day.
We had hotel air-conditioning issues, interlopers in our reserved seats, and I, a bad migraine on check-out day. Agreeing to a smaller but cooler room, taking a later train, and negotiating an extended check-out helped us remain unruffled.
3. Don’t check boxes — but do check the itinerary.
No, no, can’t, can’t, busy, busy, booked, booked. Ever feel your tour or trip is so crammed that you’ll need a vacation when you go home? Rather than trying to do everything, opt out occasionally. Allow yourself time to meander, rest, or contemplate the day’s sightseeing.
When paired with a spouse, sibling or friend, agree to gentle rules and rhythms for your trip. My husband and I decided we would visit only one museum per day, build outdoor exercise into our adventures, and that some daily solo time was important.
4. Take refuge in ordinary moments — and don’t get overwhelmed.
Unexpected crowds may not be as scary as the Wicked Witch’s army of flying monkeys. But if you get swarmed by surges of tourists, sneak a private bubble of space. After years in crowded trains, airports and piazzas, I learned a little trick: park the backpack or suitcase a few inches in front of my feet. The visual space can calm the heart and mind.
Consider micro-breaks from overstimulation. Seek out the tranquility of trees in a neighborhood park. Most train stations have good cafes. Ferries have several decks with inside or outside benches.
5. Duck into less crowded restaurants — and check your watch.
My hometown is a popular destination. People queue for hours to eat on the main avenue. Often, side streets have excellent eateries with little or no lines. Tip: look for where the locals go.
We took our own advice while traveling through Italy and discovered fabulous food and service. Many restaurants, however, close in the afternoon. One day at 2:45 p.m., we negotiated a quick lunch of salads and fresh bread, no problem. But then, the smiling waiter reminded us they’d close in 10 minutes. Cibo di veloce — fast food!
6. Learn a dozen Italian phrases — and keep Google Translate handy.
In smaller villages, not everyone speaks English. Knowing some basic Italian goes a long way in greeting people, asking for help or ordering a meal. Tip: Google Translate offers a camera option (read ingredients or menus) and a real-time conversation mode for you and your new Italian friend to chat.
I need meals senza glutine, without gluten, and prefer to let shop workers know solo guardando, I’m only looking. My favorite phrase at gelato shops is posso provare questo, can I try this, followed by a smile and pointing gesture to the desired flavor.
7. Snap and organize photos as you go — and remember to look around.
A picture equals a thousand words, true. But scrolling through hundreds of favorite vacation photos to find one is tedious. Better to organize albums ahead of time on your phone for each location. Then, on the fly, you can drag and drop epic images where they belong.
I used to travel with a talented photographer friend. She’d capture National Geographic quality shots that rendered my camera a wasted appendage. Funny though, she’d miss the beauty unfolding around us — the sounds, smells and vibrancy. Absorb those mental photos, too.
8. Bring what you can’t live without — or suffer the consequences.
Most people notoriously overpack. But sometimes, we forget the one thing we wish we’d brought. I’m sensitive to lights, especially the blinking smoke alarm or strip under a doorway. So, blue painter’s tape is always in my bag. Nowhere in Italy could I find Children’s Chewable Pepto Bismol or isopropyl alcohol once my travel-size containers were depleted.
While it’s always fun to try new things, being without a vital item can disrupt your mojo. Pack a quart-sized bag with extra essentials and leave it in your suitcase.
Ciao for now. Check out my other Italian experiences here. I’d love to hear about your travels, too.
